On Japanese Food Shows
Comments: 2
There’s a sociological study of food programmes in Japan just waiting to be written. (Or it’s been written, in which case it’s waiting for me to read it.) In a nutshell, the food shows seem to be charged with something of a nation-building role. By reinforcing the uniqueness and specialness of the cuisine (and, by extension, culture), they foster social cohesion. I’m only being about 25% facetious here.
The pattern is always the same: a ‘reporter’ visits some remote locale (thus activating the theme of nostalgia for one’s hometown and childhood - powerful motivators hereabouts) and samples dishes from a series of local restaurants (anything form the lowliest ramen stands to top-of-the-line places). There’s often some travail involved in reaching these places, or finding the restaurant (theme of endurance leading to reward, the gambare spirit). They may visit the local produce market, or stroll along the wharf to chat with fishermen about the catch (the theme here being purity of raw ingredients and blessed be bounteous nature). The preparation of the food is carefully photographed in close-up, and the finished dishes are lovingly shown against a background of autumn leaves, or mountain stream, or whatever.
Finally, the ‘reporter’ gets to eat, and here the procedure never varies. After taking the first mouthful, the eyebrows move upwards slightly to invoke thoughtfulness and discrimination, the face then twists into a rictus of pleasure, and the ‘reporter’ groans Umai!!! (Good!!!) through a mouthful of food.
Nature, location, and one’s enduring spirit have come together — fused to embody and convey in the most sensuous way possible the quintessence of being Japanese.
Well, that’s my theory, anyway.
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Posted to General Rants • 2001.12.05 (Wed) • 22:52
Comments
Posted by M Sinclair Stevens 2001.12.07, 13:35
I just discovered Movable Type and have been exploring weblogs (sometimes I’m so 20th century), which is how I discovered you. I lived in Japan ten years ago and your comments and photos bring back many memories.
Your observation on how cooking shows play on nostalgia for one’s childhood home reminds me of a line from “The Cooking of Japan” (Time-Life Foods of the World Series. 1969 p 162).
“In Tokyo, moreover, one can find a seemingly endless, yet ever-increasing number of restaurants specializing in foods from one region of the country or another. These regional restaurants cater primarily to the hundreds of thousands of homesick small-town lads who have come to the big city to make their fortunes. These places ooze nostalgia: the excellent food is authentic, imported waitresses in traditional regional costume speak the local dialect and sing local folks songs, and dishes and decor reflect the region’s culture and crafts. The dreamy expression in the eyes of the customers is a sure indication that the restaurant has evoked memories of home villages.”
Posted by jh 2001.12.07, 23:56
Great quote - thank you. There are still plenty of these restaurants around. “Dreamy expression…” indeed. Best of luck with your weblog (and I hope you let me know where it is when it’s up and running).
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